Eclectic Praga Północ

After more than a year of dating a woman residing in Nowa Praga, I have finally resolved to get to know the area better. The neighbourhood which in mind had been a squalid and off-putting place turned out to only partly reflect my image.

For about a decade the central part of Praga Północ has been undergoing a transformation from a god-forsaken, shady district into a modern, even posh area. The vicinity to the city centre which is just across Most Śląsko-Dąbrowski has definitely catalysed the un-coordinated modernisation. One of such examples are the buildings between ul. Stalowa, ul. Czynszowa and ul. Strzelecka. The modern one to the left has been squeezed between run-down, no longer inhabited tenements. The one to the right definitely is up-and-coming with its renovation potential.

While walking across the district (on Sunday, 6 August 2023) I made my way into a desolated courtyard by ul. Stalowa. The gate leads to a typical shrine put up at the very centre of the spot. I was a bit of scared while roaming there, as no living soul was around. Actually it benefitted me, as no scoundrel hang around. The tenement is not inhabited and the snap does not render the smell of excrements I had to endure.

 

The shot from ul. Równa depicts a typical landscape of Praga with all its elements - from the left:

- a relatively new block of flats built in the 1990s, with a quaint wall painting and graffiti,

- not too fancy cars parked on what used to be grass,

- a tall, yet narrow partly inhabited tenement with a dark gate passage,

- stand-alone rubbish containers (odour in the summer guaranteed),

- terraced garages (built in tines when car theft were a plague here) overgrown by ivy.

The only missing elements are inebriated pan Heniek and pan Ziutek sipping a beverage bought in a nearby monopolowy.

 

Ul. Czynszowa. The tram terminus resembles Italy. A narrow street, balconies typical for housing estates in Rome, a tramway in a symbiosis with the road and the pavement. Enlarge the photo to find out each of the buildings was erected in a different decade - the oldest blocks date back to pre-war times, some remember the communist era, while the newest were put up in 1990s and early 2000s.

 

The corner of ul. Równa and ul. Czynszowa, just next to the tram terminus is the essence of the district's climate. The Marian shrine looks like it is looked after by locals residents. The old mattress and pieces of furniture had laid there for weeks. A rubbish container calls for a roofed box. In the background, an old couple rambling towards the nearby church for a Sunday mass.

The building at ul. Środkowa 9 was erected in 1869 and for decades played host to Towarzystwo Przyjaciół Dzieci Ulicy. Thoroughly renovated between 2019 and 2021, now serves the same functions as it had done many years ago - is a home to Zespół Ognisk Wychowawczych im. Dziadka Lisieckiego. Note the building in the background. Though it looks like a brand-new block of flats, a careful examination and the study of Google Street View reveals it is an old tenement which has undergone an all-out refurbishment.

Staring at the spot by ul. Środkowa, closer to ul. 11 Listopada, I wondered when the time had stopped here? The pre-war tenements had their windows replaced, most dwelling remain inhabited. For some reason the large wall to the right nearly lacks windows, yet some of them have been bricked over. The terraced garage presumable date back to late communism. The wall paintings are relatively new. Cars parked outside the buildings hint at limited affluence of their dwellers (note the Skoda Octavia on WXT black plates - the vehicles has probably not change headroom since driving out of a dealer's showroom in late 1998). 

A close-up of the wall painting from the previous snap reveals it shows an engine. I wonder what the purport of the artwork is, but I captured the scene mostly to show you a row of already unused loos. Worth keeping in mind sanitary conditions in this area were poor for a long time.

The building at the corner of ul. Konopacka and ul. Stalowa is one of few ones which bear testimony of WW2 fights. Bullet-made holes in the wall have not been filled. Plaster has come off here and there. The shop reminds of a post-war procurement co-operative. Satellite dishes, open windows and laundry hung out to dry indicate some of the dwellings remain inhabited.

The climate of old Praga Północ is slowly fading, but I doubt the pace of transformation speeds up. The district no longer has such untapped potential as two decades ago, but it should take a wise liaison of city authorities and the private sector to make use of it in a way which would benefit the entire community.

Moravian vineyards by bike

Back from the long weekend spent mostly on two leg-powered wheels in South Moravian region. My in-laws hatched the idea of venturing there some time ago, but some issues put paid to their plans and eventually we have put them into practice. 

The region are the former lands held by the Liechtenstein family (the one whose tiny state is squeezed between Austria and Switzerland), yet were expriopriated in 1940s by the communists. Despite passing time the region still stands out in terms of well-preserved architecture which does not resemble a typical ex-communist country.

The South Moravian region is not far from Poland (7 hours of drive from Warsaw with 110 kmph at tempomat) and mere 3 hours from the Silesian agglomeration. Despite its proximity to my homeland, it remains undiscovered by my compatriots and by tourists from other countries too. Despite the mid-August peak of holiday season, the places we visited were anything but crowded. If somebody tells you the region is a little Tuscany, just take it for granted.

On our way there we made a stopover in Olomunec, a former capital of the region and of the entire Czech Republic. The city is now relatively small, but can boast of an epic old town, with eye-pleasing tenements, town hall and several monuments.

We have booked a last-minute stay in Lednice, probably the most enchanting town in the south-eastern corner of the Czech Republic. Four nights in a reasonably well-equipped apartment set us back only PLN 1,300 (or PLN 160 per night per person).

The castle, surrounded by a French garden is the centre of the town. The area must be looked after by cleaners and gardeners, with neatly trimmed lawns and plants enchanting visitors, but as Michael would argue, not moving with the times climate-wise. Oddly enough, the entrance to the gardens is free of charge and the park is not even closed overnight.

The region is famous for its vineyards, despite climate not much warmer than of Warsaw (average temperature across the year in Brno is one Celsius degree higher than in Warsaw). The area is most effectively sightseen by bike, with several trails marked out and many spots not reachable by car.

Valtice, here seen from the distance from a top of a hill overgrown with vitis, is the second most beautiful town in the region. Note excellent visibility on sunny, dry day.

Sonberk is one of the most renowned vineyards in the region, offering both bottled wines, as well as wine tasting on a terrace with a view on vitis trees, fields, lakes and mountains. Looking at the photo only, would you guess it was taken in the Czech Republic?

On one day we took a tour via a section of the iron curtain cycling trail and rode past Austrian villages. Our biggest discovery there were the crude oil extraction fields operated by OMV. Here, a pumpjack overseen by a matka boska naftowa.

The village of Vrbive can boast of the only wine cellars in the region. In line with the best practices, wine is stored underground, in properly ventillated dark facilities.

On our way back to Poland we dropped in on Brno. The current capital of the region stood little chance to lift my spirits if temperature outside was +34C and actual temperature on paved streets in full sunshine reached probably more than +45C. The Czech Republic still needs to catch up on unpaving its cities and getting the cars of out city centres.

This was my fourth visit to the Czech Republic within 1 year and I am growing fond of the country. It is generally clean and tidy (no litter nor dog turds on streets), people there are friendly, like physical exercising, drivers are considerate and respectful towards cyclists, prices remain affordrable.

If I was to recommend moving around the area I visited, a bicycle (for many an electric one) is an excellent choice, as many picturesque places cannot be even reached by car. Three full days for cycling trips (223 kilometres covered on bikes while the car sat idle) are just enough to visit major attractions of the region.

Megane hit 100,000 kilometres

On 2 August 2023 my Megane III reached a milestone – after twelve years and one month in service its odometer hit 100,000 kilometres. Such mileage is usually reached far earlier, yet if you use a car only if necessary, six-digit readout appears once a vehicle grows older.

The car has been with my family since driving out of dealership showroom. My parents bought it brand-new in July 2011 and they used it for more than five years sparingly for driving around town and intermittent long-distance trips. After more than five years, as my old car was turning less reliable, my parents opted for a new vehicle and handed over their (donated) Megane III to me. The car had just under 30,000 kilometres on the clock at that time.

For around the first year of its usage, it served me for daily commutes to the underground station, but after I moved to Warsaw, I switched to a routine of using it on average two or three times a week, for at least mid-distance journeys and long trips.

I have taken down dates it hit the previous milestones:
- 30,000 kilometres on 14 November 2016 (just upon the handover),
- 40,000 kilometres on 17 November 2017 (a trip to Berlin and Wrocław, to Mazury along the way),
- 50,000 kilometres on 18 August 2018 (trips to Toruń, Bielsko-Biała, Mazury, Vienna, Slovenia and Bratislava, Wrocław along the way),
- 60,000 kilometres on 22 August 2019 (a trip to Dolnośląskie along the way),
- 70,000 kilometres on 15 December 2020 (a trip to Bieszczady along the way),
- 80,000 kilometres on 12 February 2022 (a trip to the seaside along the way),
- 90,000 kilometres on 23 December 2022 (trips to the seaside and to Wisła twice along the way),
over the last 10,000 kilometres trips to Wisła, skiing to Jakuszyce and Prague, Wisła for the long weekend in May, Wisła and Bieszczady in early June and Wisła in July. Note out of 10,000 kilometres driven over seven months nearly 6,000 were driven in long-distance trips.

The car hardly ever sits in traffic jams and is very seldom used for short-distance (below five miles) journeys. With such driving habits the car’s condition remains impeccable. Wear and tear makes itself felt, but part replacements are predictable and do not suck a hole in my wallet. Only the air conditioning has been going bonkers recently and I fear it might be the first costly defect. Given the rising prices of brand-new cars, the car has not depreciated since 3 years – I estimate its resale value at PLN 25,000, yet for a while I am not going to check it out.

I realise given the car’s age (not a mileage), the days of its reliability might be numbered, so I am slowly thinking of a replacement, which would be probably a reliable petrol-fuelled compact estate car, bought brand-new and intended to be kept going for more than a decade too!

Off to Czech Republic to cycle around Moravian wineyards. A write-up with photos due in 2 weeks.