Into the mountains for a long weekend

Back from a very intense, nine-day holidays (with only three working days taken off) spent in Wisła (free-of-charge accomodation) and around. In terms of physical exercise, it was a demanding time.

On Saturday, 27 April we had warm-up bike trip south of Wisła, with some significant elevation. 32 kilometres cycling done.

On Sunday, 28 April we girlfriend ran across the mountains west of Wisła, while I kept her company on my bike. Except for uphill sections, when I had to manhandle a bike, a piece of cake. 24 kilometres covered.

On Monday, 29 April, we drove to the Czech Republic with bikes and did a 27-kilometre trip, including an ascent to more than 1,000 metres above sea level. I am falling in love with Poland's southern neighbour even more.

On Tuesday, 30 April we went on a 22-kilometre climb to Skrzyczne, which is the second-highest peak in Beskid Śląski. Due to temperature topping at around +25C, this was the most exhaustive activity during our stay. The snap shows Jezioro Żywieckie, as seen from the final ascent to the Skrzyczne summit.

The first day of May, as a proper labour day, was the time of rest.

On Thursday, 2 May, again we packed the bikes into the car and went for a 47-kilometre cycling trip into Lysa Hora, which included an 8-kilometre uphill section with elevation of 700 metres. Covering it, either on a saddle, or manhandling, was memorable and splendid views from the peak, 1,368 metres above the sea level, came as a reward.

On Friday, 3 March we drove to Górna Rycerka to take a leisury 16-kilomtre hike into Przegibek and Wielka Racza route. With mere 700 metres of elevation, that was a relatively light expedition, with only some breathtaking views. The one to the right shows snow still lingering on northern slopes of Slovakian mountains.

On Saturday, 4 May we ventures to a cosy historic Czech town, Stramberk, located some 80 kilometres from Wisła. The pics shows the market square (or rather rectangle) visible from the historic castle tower.

History of the town dates back to the fourteenth century, however the wooden huts in the central part for which the town is famous, were built in the eighteenth century and remain superbly preserved.

The town has a hilly landscape and the six-kilometre stroll was full of ascents and descents, abounding in unforgettable panoramas (in the background the castle tower from which the first photo was taken).

On Sunday, 5 May, we took a short (mere 28 kilometres) trip to Ustroń by bike. In nearly flat terrain it brought a nice ending to the calorie-burning weekend.

Back to Warsaw to drown in a daily gring, counting down days to the oncoming Corpus Christi weekend.

Early June, southern Poland

Good to be home after spending over a week in different venues in the hilly southern part of my homeland. First five days in Wisła; the timing of our stay was not haphazard. We turned up to my girlfriend’s second home to take part in the third “Granatowe Góry” – JerzyPilch Festival, a series of (mostly) open-air lectures, discussion panels, workshops and concerts. Despite not being a culture freak, I picked out thought-provoking events from a rich agenda (usually four events taking place at the same time) and appreciated them.

As I dwell on his works and biography, I discover Mr Pilch as a controversial and enthralling figure. He appeared in the spotlight late, in the early 1990s, after turning 35. Written-word-wise, he could boast a superb skill of building long-drawn-out, complex sentences, in which no word is useless and which do not let a reader lose track of the thread. He deftly and humorously painted ordinary events and spiced ordinary places with magic. On the other hand, he was an outright sexist and misogynist. His most renowned book, “Pod mocnym aniołem” being a brutal record of how low an alcohol addict can stoop, has been an inspiration for a film of the same title. As a male, he had several more of less fleeting relationships with women. Towards the end of his life, he married a poet quite probably younger than me, who stayed with him until the end of his days (in which Parkinson disease kept him company). Currently I presume the widow has an affair with Jerzy Baczyński, chief editor of “Polityka” weekly.

I must say I have little understanding for romantic relationships with age gap higher than a generation (in the aforementioned example the age difference is roughly 40 years). I could not even imagine myself, aged 35, going out with a woman aged 25. Folks claim if a younger woman falls in love (if it is indeed love) with a much older man, money has to be in stake. In Pilch’s case, this could not have been the case, as he never earned a lot and quickly parted with his income. Besides, as an alcoholic, he lacked some of the crucial makings of a reliable life companion.

Customarily, the festival attendees were also my girlfriend’s parents, which involved living under one roof with them for five days and nights (we slept in a living room). With hindsight, I was over-optimistic with respect to how smoothly we would get on with one another. The stay went without spats, but being positioned as a guest in a place I am familiar with and where I make myself at home was a kind of uncomfortable. The unease was felt with my girlfriend’s parents, who had an intruder in the flat in which her father grew up.

What I had to put up with were… rituals (as a person afflicted with mild Asperger syndrome I detest them) and the fact the life revolved around eating. I confess I eat to deliver nutrients to my body, minding healthiness of my diet, but do not take much pleasure in consumption. Participating frequently in rituals related to eating or drinking was a misery to me, a waste of time, energy and money (not mine, yet any). I have recently realised I am not fond of celebrating. I realise why it is important to people and for social reasons I take part in celebrations, but do not cherish them as most people do.

As we were leaving for Bieszczady, I felt a deep relief. The weather during the Corpus Christi weekend was not quite fine (lots of rainfall), but made the most of clement mornings and early afternoons wandering past Połoniny, at times above clouds and relaxed indoors during afternoons. On our way back we made a stopover in Lublin, my first ever visit to the city and hopefully not the last one.

Wisła – the longest stay so far

A quick photo coverage of my foray to Wisła. I grabbed the opportunity of not having to pop in to the office during the theoretically slack period around Christmas and resided in the mountain resort for 10 days. One event I slightly regret as a zealous weather observer was missing out on experiencing the January heat record for Warsaw and the whole Poland (+18.9C on 1 January 2023). Where I was temperature in full sunshine barely climbed above +10C.

Higher into the mountains, remnants of snow lingered until the end of the 2022. During our trip to Trzy Kopce Wiślańskie on New Year’s Eve, we came across regular snow at 700 metres above sea level and such ice 100 metres higher. The dog was elated. We made it to the peak thanks to winter footwear we had worn.

On New Year’s Day we drove to Jaworzynka, a village close to a place where borders of Poland, Czech Republic and Slovakia converge. We hiked to the spot and to two other countries from the village, while other tourists had to carry their arses in their cars up to the venue. Twoje serce przypomina – piechotą zdrowiej. To the right – viaducts being a part of D3 motorway in Slovakia. I drove here in May 2018 not realising such valley was beneath the road.

A snap taken on the same day shows the undulating landscape of the Czech village Herczawa, which we later ambled through during our 11-kilometre hike. The weather was March-like and while we were ascending, two layers of clothing were absolutely sufficient.

The very tourist destination where the borders meet is in a state of reconstruc- tion. Instead of grass, mud is all around, presence of solar panels and wind turbines is notable. Sadly, cars in the background remind for many one mile is a far too long distance to cover on foot. Entry to such spots should be prohibited to visitors’ vehicles.

On 6 January we hiked to Stecówka. We cycled through part of that route in August, but this time we rambled up a shorter trail. To the right, a panorama from the viewing platform en route. In the fog one sees the confluence of Biała Wisełka and Czarna Wisełka. Where the two brooks join each other the river Wisła officially starts.

As we roamed downhill, we passed the winter residence of the president of Poland. Due to unfavourable skiing conditions (the weather resembled late autumn), Mr Duda was absent at that time.

As my girlfriend rightly claims, you should not stay in Wisła for too long, not to get accustomed to that place. After at most two weeks you should return to Warsaw to foster the longing for the place. For business (quite many tribulations at work) reasons I doubt I will visit the town in the coming weeks.

Workation

The word above has been underlined by the review tool as incorrect. The blend of work and vacation has emerged relatively recently, with remote working becoming increasingly popular. And until recently I had not been fond of combining travelling for pleasure without taking days off, as I believed if I venture somewhere, I should make the most of the sites I visit and not taint them with workplace-related stress and rush.

My approach changed after I hit it off, romantically, with my girlfriend who has her second flat (inherited after her grandparents) in Wisła.

The second trip to the resort was longer – we set off on Saturday, 15 October, early in the morning and returned on Sunday, 23 October in the evening. Thus we enjoyed almost 2 weekends there, plus we both took a day of on Tuesday 18 October, to make use of the spell of the Indian summer.

Weather-wise, the timing was perfect. On both weekends temperatures topped at more than +15C (though not always with sunshine) and at the beginning of the working week afternoon highs were close to +20C.

To the right – a snap from Transbeskidzki Szlak Konny, somewhere between Leśnica and Wisła Malinka. Note on higher altitudes trees had shed leaves and the path might be slippery.

On Monday afternoon we took an afternoon break from work and cycled into Dolina Białej Wisełki, close to the spot where Czarna Wisełka and Biała Wisełka converge ahead of a dam. The photo was taken around one hour before the sunset, with sunrays marvellously illuminating the landscape.

On Tuesday, in full sunshine, we wandered from Żabnica, through Hala Borawska, Hala Lipowska, Rysianka and Romanka, back to Żabnica – we covered 19 kilometres on foot and scaled the elevation gain of 878 metres. With excellent visibility, one could see summits of Tatry, including the highest peak – Gerlach.

The highest mountain we climbed was Romanka, 1,366 metres above sea level. From the top of it, one could discern the city of Żywiec in the distance. By the way – can anyone advise how to get rid of that blot from the eye of my camera?

Another before-sunset view, from the peak of Ochodzita, overlooking Koniaków, one of those villages in Beskid Śląski where more than three-fourth of residents vote for the ruling party…

On Saturday before the departure we ventured to Cieszyn. The town, called also the Polish Vienna has some impressive sights, with Cieszyńska Wenecja (the Venice of Cieszyn) being the most popular one, whose existence I discovered… during the last weekend.

Cieszyn has a proper mountain hill from which a panorama of the Czech part of the town can be observed. We crossed the border, sensed two cultures intermingling, bringing back memories the early days of the pandemic, when border between Poland and the Czech Republic was closed.

On the last day in the morning we took a bicycle ride of nearly 20 kilometres across rural areas. With the proper optical zoom I would take a pic of the wildlife approaching human dwellings, a sight rather uncommon in the capital.

Looking forward to the next trip there, probably after Christmas.

Wisła – the town and the river

A traveller’s post without photos is a shame. Yet for some reason I have not taken my camera with me this time and took only 2 or 3 snaps with my phone. I cherished the moments, yet failed to save them for posterity.

A fresh relationship with a new girlfriend (we seriously hit it off in the last decade of July 2022) has moved on quickly enough that she invited me over to her second flat in Wisła. The old border guards headquarters building is where her paternal grandparents lived. Having repaid her aunt and uncle, she fully inherited the flat and turned into a holiday hangout or a place to work from in times of home office.

Getting to the site is (sadly) the most convenient by car – over 80% of the route is covered on motorway and as I set tempomat at 110 kmph (average fuel consumption of mere 6.2 litres per 100 kilometres) I managed to reach my destination within 4 hours and 20 minutes (door to door). An alternative is a PKP Intercity train to Bielsko-Biała, with journey duration of under four hours, but then you need to get to Wisła somehow, which is nearly 40 kilometres from the train station in Bielsko-Biała.

Funnily enough, I revisited Bielsko-Biała, a city I got to know reasonably well a few years ago, while with my ex-girlfriend. I felt slightly uncomfortable roaming around the town on my own to see how it has changed, while at that time my girlfriend was running 25 kilometres in the mountains. Memories have not been brought back, I had no flashbacks, but the place will always remain symbolic to me.

A pity I have not documented strolls and bike rides around Wisła, a town with 10,000 inhabitants whose area is as large as of Katowice and which consists of 7 districts, lying on countless hills and valleys. But since it seems it was just my first visit there, in a few weeks or so I will be likely to venture there with a camera and take shots when fiery colours of autumn take over in town.

During the weekend I also took up the biggest challenge in terms of uphill cycling in my life. I pedalled up the gross elevation of 567 metres, with some sections of ascent having a slope of 8%. Not easy pickings, yet I am profoundly proud of myself.

The short (4 nights, 3 days) foray helped me recharge batteries, yet now I am looking forward to another holidaying. Next Sunday I fly to Sardinia for a week. Expect a (proper photo) coverage on 11 September.