To the Polish seaside, 2024

Last minute booking proves a cost-effective travel strategy (unless in high season) if you want to grasp a decent, yet cheaply-priced accommodation. We did it the previous Friday and thus found a three-night stay for mere PLN 400 for the two of us (the dog free of charge).

For the sake of convenience, we chose Sztutowo by Zatoka Gdańska bay, which is one of the nearest seaside spots from Warsaw - mere 325 kilometres from Ursynów, door to door.

Sztutowo is a nefarious example of public transport deprivation, with a journey to Gdańsk Główny train station by two buses lasting at best 4 hours and 33 minutes, longer than a door-to-door journey by car. Driving-wise the S7 section between Czosnów and Płońsk under reconstruction is awfully unfriendly even for a seasoned driver. I somewhat feared my quarter-a-year old car (a review next week) would get a first damage from one of fellow insane drivers (had one near miss), but fortunately it returned home in one piece.

Given the timing of our foray a week before the onset of school holidays and non-resort character of Sztutowo, we stayed far from the groan and enjoyed charms of nearly empty beaches.

In the nearby Krynica Morska to which we travelled by bikes on Monday, precincts and beaches were already full of people on a working week day still before the high season. While Krynica Morska is not a recommendable destination to find a place, the R10 cycling path running to it is utterly breathtaking.

Sztutowo is known for being a location of a nazi concentration camp between 1939 and 1945. On the somewhat rainy Sunday I cycled to the local museum to have an encounter with the traces of one of lousiest atrocities in the history of the mankind. Realising what happened there is not equivalent to being confronted with the testimony thereof.

Albeit the very journey there and the accommodation were cheap, eating out involved forking out loads of money for the horrific restaurant receipts (paragony grozy) a lunch for two (a sizeable portion of fish, French fries, a set of rawness, beverage) was the expense between PLN 120 (pricey, yet still reasonable) and PLN 160 (too pricey for non-resort location and pre-high season). With most tables occupied, I presume with eating out not particularly affordable for an average Pole, the local market remains in a balance, especially since holidaymakers tend to be less thrifty.

Check out also the coverages of previous trips to the seaside in May 2022 and June 2021.