Karkonosze

The two-week period off work is drawing to a close, time is up to share some snaps from a yet another foray to Dolny Śląsk and to Czech Republic. It has been a long-awaited trip, taken after 11 months without holidays (chasing the promotion, getting things done in my previous position, then shaking down in the new role), a time which has borne brunt on me and left me in deep fatigue.

Although places where I stayed were familiar with me, I aimed to conquer some new venues located higher above sea level. The first surprise on my was the paved over trail from Szklarska Poręba towards Szrenica. Cobblestone was laid here in 2025 in pursuit of making it accessible to the disabled and childminders with prams. I am in two minds about the development. On one hand more visitors might take it, on the other, it has lost part of its character.

Flat or nearly flat are most trails on top of Karkonosze. Here a shot from a brisk trekking between Szrenica and Śnieżne Kotły, some 1,400 metres above sea level. Note dwarf flora typical for such altitudes. High above temperature was 10 Celsius degrees below +25C recorded at that time in valleys.

Śnieżne Kotły is a rocky basin famous for snow lingering in northern crevices even until July. This year, despite snowy winter, the range of snow strips is far smaller than average which means what was there on 25 May might have melted by now.

When snows melt, Nordic skiing routes close to Jakuszyce become perfect cycling trails. Here, one of the landmarks one can pass – a rundown stone processing plant between Szklarska Poręba and Jakuszyce. Those are just ruins, but without them the area would lose part of its charm.

Cesky Raj (literally the Bohemian Paradise) is nature reservoir full of rock formations, located some 60 kilometres from the Polish border. Breathtaking, worth visiting over a longer weekend, since the formations are scattered around several spots in the area and some have historic castles on top of them.

Harrachov, a village known for ski-jumping competitions and being a skiing resort, in the summer is not a major attraction. Trails in forests east of it are enjoyable, yet boring. Note the central spot of Harrachov was anything, but chock full of people (on a working day in late May).

I (proudly) shy away from having an account on Instagram, but can tell you the building close to the Pravcicka Brana is an exemplary “instaspot”. You march uphill a few kilometres to snap this picturesque edifice, look around and tick it off as “popped by”. Some visitors (including me) also take hats down to builders who erected this building in a place with virtually no access from a regular road.

The very Brana (in English, a gate) is an amazing natural rock formation, here clumsily snapped by me, as I had set sharpness on a mountain in the distance which resembles a dormant volcano. Pay attention to trees growing on top of rocks, proving might of the nature.

Zamek (castle) Chojnik is a venue to which the ascent was the shortest, with elevation gain of mere 300 metres. Strong wind has precluded me from scrambling up the castle’s tower, but from a terrace beneath it, one can contemplate the panorama of Jelenia Góra: Sobieszów in the foreground, Cieplice Śląskie Zdrój further behind, the city centre in the distance.

For a dessert, another proper climb, to Śnieżka (literally: the snow hill), the highest peak of Karkonosze, 1,602 (some sources quote 1,603 or 1,605) metres above sea level. Started out from Karpacz, on altitude of 700 metres above sea level and amble with green and then blue trail, to pass by all scenic mountain huts on the way towards Śnieżka. Samotnia (literally: hermitage) is the most legendary one, located in a basin, photographed (by me again, clumsily) from above, with a pond next to it.

Strzecha Akademicka (literally: scholars’ thatch) further up the trail looks the least splendid of the huts en route to Śnieżka, maybe for that reason I did not witness crowds hanging around outside it.

Dom Śląski in turn looks much better on photographs. As one approaches it, the yellow facade strikes with sleaziness. The past-German spirit of the place of spoilt by solar panels (OZE-srOZE) on the roof. To the left – a proper 4WD pickup in a place, where its presence and use is justified. Toilet payable, PLN 4 (or CZK 30) with cash only.

The last snap is one of several views from the top of Śnieżka. The summit is free of clouds or precipitation only for some 60 days in a year and in mid-May there was some fresh snow there. I consider myself lucky, as the weather was fine enough not to put on a jacket kept in a rucksack just in case.

Off to Wrocław in business tomorrow. The upcoming three weeks will be bring travels to places located between 350 and 600 kilometres from Warsaw, hence I am likely to be sick of moving about for a while.

Not a winter (wonderland) we have got used to

One of the goals of my annual winter timelines, written since 2010/11 season, is keeping track of day-to-day weather changes in one of two periods of a year most affected by climate changes. The sixteenth one is hence in the making. Winters generally tend to be warmer, wetter, with more rainfall and less snow. But as the atmosphere gets warmer, the risk of extreme events rises. As some regions of the world are facing unprecedented for this time of year heat (such is the case for most of the USA since around Christmas), others must counterbalance this with periods of abnormal cold.

Temperature-wise, we have been far from record-breaking chill. In the first days of January temperatures were close to long-term average for the period. Just recently it got markedly colder, yet even with temperature decreasing to –15.4C yesterday morning, Warszawa Okęcie weather station readouts have barely hits their 5-year lows (–20.6C was measured here on 18 January 2021) and are still well above twenty-first century records (–27.1C on 23 January 2006) or low officially reported in post-war period (–30.7C on 8 January 1987).

Snow-wise, after a series of snow-sparse winters, recent conditions are what we are no longer accustomed to. One must also say precipitation of 50 centimetres daily as reported in several places across northern Poland are not what we capable of combating. Such amounts of snowfalls have statistically been witnessed around twice in a century and were not, unlike some claim, typical several decades ago. In Warsaw snow cover got higher than 40 centimetres only three times after 1951:
- in 1970: between 22 February and 5 March (the 1969/70 winter was all-in-all the harshest in post-war history of Poland),
- in 1979: between 6 January and 8 January, between 18 January and 20 January, then between 30 January and 27 February,
- in 2010: between 13 February and 19 February.

This year, hitting such mark is not particularly likely. The snow fallen in late December and early January has already subsided, brining snow cover below 20 centimetres. The current forecasts suggest we may count on some snow top-up, but in a few days it will begin to melt. I keep fingers crossed for a thaw setting in.

I am not one of those fond of proper winter. I do not feel sorry for motorists (including myself, as roads are salted too well in comparison to slippery pavements), but this is a nuisance for people having to move about in general, pedestrians (who again, appear to be second-class citizens), all workers doing their jobs in the open air, elderly and disabled people often stuck at home due to the weather. I also feel sorry for those who cannot afford to heat their dwellings properly and to protect themselves from frostbites recourse to lousy incineration inputs. Many folks do so and you need no sensor to deteck awful air quality. On Friday I ran some 30 metres to catch a bus and I could feel the smell of hells knows what shit burnts in my lungs. Costs and inconvenience of harsh winter is hence borne by everyone, while few benefit or cherish it. On the other hand, harsh conditions shape tough people, so let’s cope with winter with fortitude!

Besides, once snow ceases to fall and sun brightens up short days, winter has its charm. Snaps dated 5 January 2026, from my first, post-flu short amble.

To the right, ul. Moczydłowska, serving mostly as a pedestrian precinct running towards Las Kabacki. Such standard of keeping non-major roads is absolutely sufficient. Other local roads kept in similar standard, with no salt in use.

The cabbage field between ul. Perkalowa and ul. Ziemska is a fascinating phenomenon. If sold for zillions, it could accommodate an estate of splendid terraced or semi-detached houses. But a local farmer prefers to grow vegetables here (note the spot is less than 15 minutes on foot from Metro Natolin).

The Kazurka hill was not chock full of children sliding down. Note benches and other objects downhill are covered with hay to prevent deadly incidents. I felt like scrambling up the hill, yet such effort could thwart my post-flu recovery.

The track running to Warsaw underground depot seems to have been out of use in early January, with snow trampled by walkers only. I still await the moment I catch a railcar on the infrequently used track.

The Oczko wodne Moczydełko pond has frozen over and is capped with snow. I would not hazard, however walking on it. Three days after the last thaw and with no double-digit frost since then, stepping on its icy surface seemed premature.

Out on another field, a man-made snowman, with eyes fallen off below nose. Plenty of other snow crafting works of art were erected in Ursynów during early days of the month, yet I felt still too weak to venture for a longer walk. Hope I catch up soon.

Early December snaps

More than preoccupied with overload at work and Szlachetna Paczka, hence not feeling like writing up a lofty essay. Instead – some snaps from the neighbourhood, taken on my way to my parents and back, by bike, yesterday.

The old house (being a remnant of the bygone Moczydło village), whose dwellers used a portable toilet put up on a backyard, is no longer inhabited. The plot of land parallel to ul. Moczydłowska most likely has been sold. I wonder if the buyer will be intent to erect here a row of terraced houses, each priced at zillions.

Ul. Leśna connecting ul. Moczydłowska to ul. Puławska is nearly empty. Despite warm, autumnal weather (+7C today, but windy), the forest was anything, but full of walkers, cyclists, nor runners.

Birch trees are the last to shed leaves. The one snapped still retained leftovers of its yellow dressing. If winds continue to blow as strongly as today, by the end of the first decade of December all leaves will be on the ground.

Fancy buying a Christmas Tree? In several spots you can already do so. I am not fond of starting celebrations early and prefer to kick off the festive season as the old tradition proscribes, i.e. on 24 December. People with small children, however, tend to decorate the Christmas trees in early December to create the atmosphere indoors. Outdoors it does not feel like Christmas at all. Judging by long-term forecasts, December 2025 stands a chance to the warmest since records began in Warsaw.

Close to my parents’ house, in Mysiadło, I come across a little flooding which makes ul. Łabędzia impassable for motor vehicles. It brings to mind the effect of downpours in early June 2010 when this very spot was under water too.

The street is waterlogged, I make it by bike, but water slightly plays havoc with brakes. This looks like waterworks breakdown. Fortunately, at my parents’ the water supply was not cut off.

On my way home I stopped over to snap the intersection of ul. Puławska and ul. Jagielska being rebuilt. Local newspapers say ul. Jagielska will be connected to the Piaseczno-bound lanes of ul. Puławska and a new set of traffic lights will be put up here. Not feeling sorry for drivers wasting their lives in traffic jams here.

Not a new post in a week, as Szlachetna Paczka final weekend is due.

The place where I belong, episode 2025, vol. 2

Making up for the July trip thus keeping my promise to deliver some missing photos of one of the most adorable cycling trip destinations in the vicinity.

All snaps dated 22 August 2025. The late Friday afternoon was cooler than usual at this time of year and lacked sunshine, which took the gloss off the scenery.

An hour or so before sunset, the path running parallel to the Natolin nature reservoir’s eastern fence was already plunging into darkness. With trees and shrubs on its both sides not pruned, the place seemed creepy.

As one approaches the spot where the path turns west towards Kabaty, one can stare at the fields and meadows of southern Wilanów. Far in the distance are the developments of Powsin.

Not much closer to Kabaty one can come across this allotment, nearly in the middle of nowhere, yet with electricity connection, water from a well, not reachable by motor vehicles. I wonder if its users (it definitely is not forsaken) have a legal title for it. As I take the picture, a CCTV camera keeps an eye on.

Heading towards Kabaty, I pass by a cabbage field, no idea if reachable by a tractor. Sunflowers from a nearby field are gone. In the distance - fenced off Natolin nature reservoir. Trespassing strictly forbidden.

Neo Natolin is an estate of fancy detached houses. Construction started in early 2023, so first dwellers have already moved in. Asking prices in late 2022 ranged from PLN 2.3 million to I don't remember how much, meaning a fully furnished house involved an expense of at least PLN 3 million. I wonder who had hatched the idea of putting up a billboard advertising the estate in the middle of nowhere.

Are we at the back of beyond in provincial Poland? Nope. We are in rural Wilanów, one mile from Metro Kabaty. The outpost has been closed for a while, but looks like a typical rural grocery shop. Only a bench for local drunk addicts was missing.

Clouds roll by as I am back in Ursynów, near entrance to Warsaw underground depot. Yellow leaves on trees are not a pure signal of imminent autumn, but indicate a drought. Trees devoid of water offload a burden, shedding leaves. Note a disparity in size of a 25-year-old Renault Clio and an ugly SUV, both basically serving the same purpose of moving around.

The place where I belong, episode 2025, vol. 1

Weather this July has been merciful so far. Except for minor incidences of heat and abundant rainfalls at times, summer over the most of the month was conducive to staying outdoors. Night-time lows just above +15C, afternoon highs close to +25C, brisk mornings and evenings are the summer weather I adore. In such circumstances outdoor beckons. Such was the case on Thursday, when I decided to get over a brain-wrenching working day by cycling around the neighbourhood.

I was lucky to pass through several green lights while crossing intersections and was first forced to halt where al. KEN and ul. Indiry Gandhi meet. The building of Multikino has been demolished a few months ago, yet I’m still missing it. The only cinema in the district, a remarkable landmark of Ursynów is gone, along with Adana Kebab eatery, which was a meet-up venue for local Szlachetna Paczka volunteers for years.

Few people know east of ul. Nowoursy- nowska and south of SGGW campus one can find an experimental estate of detached and semi-detached houses built shortly after WW2 for the university’s staff. Shrouded in greenery, look most splendidly when spring blossoms. Sadly, outside most houses inhabitants were outdoors, working in gardens, or just sitting and taking delight in a lovely evening, hence I did not snap them. I will make up one day.

Having cycled down ul. Orszady, I pass the most luxurious residential estate in Warsaw, on the edge of Wilanów. Prices of last available houses are not disclosed (until 10 September 2025, thereafter a full disclosure of property prices will be proscribed by law), but the Internet tells they range from PLN 3.2 million to PLN 6.5 million. I can afford to park my bike outside the gate.

Some time later, having ridden up ul. Pałacowa, I reach the back gate of the Natolin palace park, an area closed off for ordinary visitors since decades. If one day I book a trip to the palace and surrounding gardens and photographing will not be prohibited, I will come up with a proper coverage.

Then came my favourite section, a path along the Skarpa Kabacka nature reservoir. Instead of taking multiple photos and picking the best snaps, I wanted to take one, yet superb. Consequently, I have not taken a single photo by the time I reached the escarpment (a lousy snap to the right). This means another such trip on the same route will be due in August and its documentation published here.

Make the most of the summer before it’s gone or before the unbearable heat comes over, which fortunately is unlikely over the next two weeks.

Pieniny

Back from a nearly week-long foray into the Polish mountains, first non-business trip far beyond Warsaw since November 2024. Given my health-related tribulations, I feared how my lumbar spine and other vulnerable parts of body would endure the strain, but to my surprise, they got on well with it, much better with work-related sitting several hours a day. Over five days I cycled 120 kilometres and hiked 50 kilometres, with elevation gain of almost 3,000 metres in total, a quite something.

On the first day I took my new bike for a first ride longer than 50 kilometres. Velo Czorsztyn, a cycling trail around Jezioro Czorsztyńskie, at times is challenging, as one needs to cycle uphill. The section on the northern shore of the lake is most picturesque and flattest. All in all, one-third of the route is enchanting, the remaining kilometres are to be covered to reach the enjoyable spots.

On the second day I drove to Nowy Targ, to climb Turbacz, the highest peak in Gorce. The ascent involved change in altitude of some 650 metres and took me a bit more than two hours. I hiked with hiking sticks, which is an absolute game-changer. My arms were a bit sore after the hikes, but splitting the body load into four limbs brings a tremendous relief to the lumbar spine. The view from the top of Gorce turned out to be impressive, yet my expectations had been inflated by those claiming panorama of Tatry is break taking. It has not taken my breath away.

On the third day I took a break from major strain, drove to Nowy Targ and took a train to Zakopane, a town I had, shame to admit, never visited before. I considered getting there by public transport only, yet in provincial Poland combining two connections is a risky exercise. But even finding trains is a bit of an exercise, as Google shows you services you can choose from, but does not divert you to specific railway operator. As a result I got there by Luxtorpeda fast train operated by Koleje Małopolskie (PLN 7.20 for a single ticket) and returned by Polregio service (same ticket price). In the very town I have not understood what makes it a tourist hangout. Unless somebody explores Tatry mountains, there are very few reasons to spend holidays there.

On the fourth day the bike came into more intensive use, although the Velo Dunajec trail was shorter and easier than Velo Czorsztyn. The route runs also in a wilder area and is far more scenic, especially on bright, sunny days in warm part of the year when greenery is lush.

On the fifth day I did not have to get anywhere to start out a hike, as my lodgings was next to a tourist trail. I climbed to conquer Trzy Korony and Sokolica – two highest peaks in Pieniny. Although the hike was not long – less than 15 kilometres in total, it involved elevation gain of almost 900 metres, at times with steep ascents. Hot and humid air made this trip most tiresome of all.

After the recent election some have posited not to visit regions where Mr Nawrocki won. I am not into such forms of punishment. In Krościenko nad Dunajcem where I had an accommodation the newly elected president received 69% of votes in the run-off, while in nearby Szczawnica only 55%. I would hazard a guess by merely looking at locals around and on standard of housing, one could guess (with a margin error of some 10 percentage points) whether the local community was in favour of Mr Trzaskowski or of Mr Nawrocki. 

Worth also mentioning provincial Poland follows a different clock than large cities. On June evenings streets of Warsaw are full of people. The market square (note the excess concreted over area) in Krościenko nad Dunajcem at 8:34 p.m. was empty.

The foray was the first long-distance trip for my Skoda Octavia since November 2024. I strived to drive as economically as possible, however conditions (rain on my way to Pieniny, aircon on my way back, hilly landscapes along the way, traffic jams near Kraków) were not conducive. I made it there and back without filling up and the “low fuel” gauge went on after 967 kilometres. The car computer is accurate with respect to actual appetite for petrol. I am quite satisfied with it. In flat terrain, drier and cooler weather and lower speed (I drove 105 kmph on expressway) the engine consumption could drop even below 4 litres per 100 kilometres.