Krynica Zdrój in November

Back from the longest holidays in 2024. The initial plan was to fly to the US west coast, then an idea to venture somewhere to the Mediterranean region was on the table, but was abandoned, due to long journey duration. Eventually, we ended up driving to a resort in southern Poland for a few days.

The was my first holidaying in November. Unlike most people who take days off in the bleakest month of the year, I did not head for an exotic, warm destination, but stayed in cool Poland (November 2024 might be the first month in the current year with mean temperature below long-term average).

Before we set off to Krynica-Zdrój, we popped over to Wisła to drop off the dog to my girlfriend’s parents. We stayed there for the long weekend, to avert sky-high accommo- dation prices and turned out to be lucky to enjoy full sunshine, unlike nearly the rest of Poland. On 10 November, exactly two months after the worst moment of my ailments, I took the dog, the trekking sticks and climbed a mountain for the first time since the malady hit me. My walk to the picturesque hill of Cienków involved a five-kilometre hike (there and back) with elevation gain of 250 metres. The descent was worse than the ascent, as somehow I did not lose my fitness, but the steep path in a mud, with a dog hauling me was a bit of nasty.

The very town of Krynica-Zdrój loses some of its charm in November, but with no crowds in place, one can take delight in beauty of building erected on the side of the main precinct, dating back to Austro-Hungarian realm, especially shyly lit by autumnal sun.

The monument commemorates the most famous artist to ever reside in Krynica Zdrój. Nikifor, a local primitivist artist, whose talent was accidentally discovered and spread worldwide. His painting skills compensating him for shortcomings in other areas – he was said to be retarded enough to require a legal guardian.

The areas surrounding the town are full of viewing platforms. The closest one, located in Słotwiny Park gives a chance to relish on splendid views of Jaworzyna Krynicka (here, shrouded in a tiny layer of snow) or the town seen from above.

Looking at the valley where the centre of Krynica-Zdrój is located, a blend of manifold architecture styles is eye-popping. Lack of order in that respect remains the plague in several Polish towns and cities. Partly it is a testimony of communist days, when obnoxious hotels and blocks of flats were built among old residences, the rest of monstrous edifices are put down to profit-chasing capitalism.

We stayed in a five-star hotel, one of two or three in Krynica-Zdrój. I will not mention its name. I would stay overnight in such places during business trips, but this was the first time I paid my own (reasonable thanks to low season) money for such accommodation. The choice was dictated by amenities in the hotel – a large swimming pool, a sauna and a gym, whose daily usage of which was supposed to speed up my recovery. The standard is closer to luxury than to comfort and the surfeit was not something which has taken my fancy. Politeness of the staff verging on servility does not boost my ego. Plenty of food served for breakfast for few occupants must have gone to waste. Daily unwanted change of towels (we hung them instead of throwing to the floor) and room cleaning was a waste of resources to me too. Keep in mind the term “greenwashing” comes from the hotel industry.

During the holidays I have put some strain on my spine (doing sports every day, three other hiking trips). This has clamped down on the progress of my recovery, but should somewhat accelerate it in the coming weeks, unless I spend too much time sitting.

Natolin, November, walk

A lot is going on around. The pandemic is covered by my bi-weekly diary. I could go on about inflation and record-weak Polish currency. I could write a dissertation on a dismal situation on the Polish-Belarusian border. I could come up with a nasty longer comment on the launch of TVP World, a decent competition to Russia Today. I could, but I won’t. I care about what is going on around, but my mind needs to get some rest from what is upsetting me.

So for the record, a photo coverage of my morning walk taken yesterday. 8:30 a.m., end of the second decade of November, sunshine, gusty wind and +10C. Spring in the air, while the winter is coming.

The Park im. Cichociem-nych is due to be revitalised in near future. For no apparent reason, restoration works involve chopping down several trees, a part of the project which many locals oppose. I see no idea why this coppice is to give way to a cycling path, which may run past the trees.

The first work done has been digging up the ground for the cycling path. The progress of works has come to a halt. Since early November nothing more has been done. The desolated area is fenced off and probably waits for the advent of winter.

The base of POW construction site is being wound down. Astaldi workers have taken away the car park and I hope they bring the area back to how it had looked out before machinery came in. I hope the concrete will give way to greenery. In the distance, a tunnel supervision centre and fume let-out chimneys. I wonder if the last section of S2 is opened before Christmas.

The Oczko wodne Moczydło 2 next to Las Kabacki, a hangout for ducks, in the summer a swimming pool for local dogs. Looking at the photo one would find it hard to guess whether it was taken in late November or in late March.

The sun-lit track which connects the underground line to the rest of the world. For more than 2 years I have not spotted a single railcar on it. Looking forward to the news of new underground trains being trundled here to the nearby depot, probably next year.

A rural view of Ursynów. The forest behind, a mown meadow with molehills ahead of me. Tall blocks of the district far in the distance. I am half a mile from home in an entirely rural area. I am glad to have found the place I belong!

For the end of the stroll, at look at ul. Moczydłowska, ultimately freed from motorists parking their vehicles on both sides. After several inspections and wheel blockers put on by the straż miejska, sods have finally learnt that road belongs to pedestrians, cyclists and runners.

November 2020, for the record

Back in mid-November I though I would write up a summary of the warmest November after WW2 in Warsaw, which on top would be snow-free and nearly frost free. The advent of pre-winter in the last days of the month has put paid to my plans. With hindsight, I believe we shall first see a frost-free April in Warsaw (no such month in the history of weather measurements so far) than a frost-free November (even with the ongoing global warming, this is a matter of decades rather than years).

November 2020 was warm. Average temperature in Warsaw was +5.8C (vs. long-term average of +3.2C and Met Office forecast of +3.6C). Stats:
- month-time high: +16.0C on 3 November 2020,
- month-time low: –4.9C on 26 November 2020,
- the warmest day: 3 November 2020 (daily average of +12.4C),
- the coldest day: 30 November 2020 (daily average of +0.1C),
- number of days with snow cover: 1
- the highest snow depth: less than 1 centimetre on 30 November 2020.

Nevertheless, a photo round-up of the month is due anyway. To the right, morning jogging on the third day of November. Temperature: +12C at 8 a.m., as warm as on a brisk summer morning. Pic taken by the Moczydło pond on the edge of Las Kabacki. To the left, a track connecting Warsaw underground with the rest of the world.

Same day, two minutes later. Trees were still in leaf, most in the fiery colours in autumn. After a rainy and warm October leaves were turning yellow and falling later than usual this year.

Saturday,
14 November, afternoon, temperature: +9C. The photo taken during a cycling trip to oversee the progress of Warsaw’s southern bypass construction. Note – the section east of ul. Przyczółkowa is to be opened on 22 December! Clouds are rolling in over Wilanów. More than an hour later, while approach home, I was caught out by the rain.

Sunday,
15 November, morning, temperature: +7C. I was waiting for a pal to indulge in cycling in a forest. Most trees had shed their leaves. Note plenty of vehicles parked on both sides of ul. Moczydłowska. Scores of people in forests are the side effect of a decree which exempts forest areas from the face-covering obligation.

Thursday,
19 November, morning, temperature: +7C. That was the last day with double-digit day-time high in November, but not this year (yesterday temperature topped +11C). A pre-work stroll through green areas, of course without a face mask (I have no remorse about not wearing a face mask when walking through sparsely populated places).

Thursday,
26 November, morning, temperature: -2C, yet three hours earlier temperature had bottomed out at -5C. Natolin was covered by the hoar frost and lit by a rising sun. That was the second morning when winter was felt in the air.

A hint for motorists not lucky enough to keep their car in a garage. Unless buildings or tall trees block out sunrays, park your car facing south-east. Thanks to this sunray will melt frost on your windshield quickly, as it did to the black BMW and was doing to grey Kia and red Mazda.

Sunday,
29 November, afternoon, temperature: +1C. For the record – poplar (to the right), birch (to the left) and willow (in the background, behind the road sign) had not shed their leaves by then. Today, after 3 days of thermal winter (mean temperature below 0C), including one with day-time high below freezing and 2 days with gusty winds, nearly all leaves are gone.

Monday,
30 November, morning, temperature: 0C. A view from my girlfriend’s living room in Targówek. A light dusting of snow which had fallen overnight was melting. By midday there was no trace of it.

Currently, judging by long-term forecasts, no winter is in sight, at least by the end of December.