The very
moment I learnt I was assigned to travel to Spain in business I knew I had been
given the opportunity to combine the business trip with some private
sightseeing and cheaply overstay there (flight back paid by the New Factory anyway
plus I was eligible for abroad travel allowances) for a few days and I seized
it!
The last
decade of January was maybe not a perfect period for tourism, but as the old
saying goes, never look a horse gift in a mouth. Central part of Spain has warm
continental climate, but in winter it means it seldom rains, sunshine is
abundant, but temperature fluctuations are high. Mornings (sunrise after 8:00
a.m.) on many days were frosty or with temperature little above zero while in
the afternoon (the warmest moment of the day around 3:00 p.m.) temperature
could reach nearly +15C, so temperature could soar by fifteen degrees within
five hours. Fortunately, over the week spent there, only one day was partly
rainy.
Getting to
Spain regardless of the season is generally easy and rather inexpensive. Choice
of low-cost and regular flights is decent. Polish Airlines (PLL LOT) operate
one return flight per day to Madrid, besides, Lufthansa offers several flights
each day with transfers in Frankfurt or Munich whose duration is around an hour
and a half higher than of LOT-operated direct flights. For business-related
reasons I had to opt for Lufthansa connection via Frankfurt, the airline in
terms of being class of its own, way superior to PLL LOT.
Accommodation
in Madrid at this time of year is cheap, with prices of hotel rooms comparable
to rates offered in Warsaw. A two-night stay with breakfasts included in a
two-star hotel for the business part of my trip set the New Factory back EUR
125, while for overstaying I booked a room in one of well-located (less than
ten metro stations from the city centre) Ibis Budget one-star hotels for less
than EUR 45 per night & breakfast. Depending on the city, prices soar in
March and decline in October (with Barcelona being the most dreadful example),
but if you look out well, finding a double room with breakfasts in a cheap (yet
clean) hotel for EUR 50 should not be out of reach.
In terms of
transport, Spain can boast of very decent infrastructure, although it has to be
noted the country fell into the trap of over-investments co-funded by the EU.
The biggest flop were toll roads built under PPP scheme whose operators (who
had underestimated traffic volumes) struggle to make ends meet and service
loans taken out to finance those projects. The very Madrid has excellent system
of underground trains (Metro) consisting of 12 lines which can take you to
nearly any part of the city. To get about Madrid I purchased right away a
Tourist Pass, a ticket valid for 7 days around Spain’s capital, including
airport ticket zone for EUR 35.40. Not extremely cheap by Warsaw standards, yet
giving a lot of comfort to a frequent traveller. To travel around Spain, I
recommend ALSA buses – journey durations are longer than by ultra-expensive
trains, but the price makes up for this (my return ticket from Madrid to Toledo
cost me less than EUR 10).
For the
record – inhabitants of Spanish cities are skilful drivers when it comes to
parallel parking – they can fit their cars into gaps wider less than half a
metre than length of their vehicle… The art I will probably never master
(although I easily park a car between two other vehicles so that you can’t open
door on any side).
I would
find it hard to put up with and get accustomed to work style Spanish people
have (but most of them do not enjoy it) – they tend to stay long hours in the
office (many work from nine to nine) regardless of how much work they need to
complete, take long afternoon breaks (also in the winter), but their working
efficiency is low, also because they come up with manifold time-fillers, such
as numerous meetings and calls. In Poland a reasonable boss in a corporation
expects from their employees to get their done and if they are able to make it
within eight hours, they can knock on at 9:00 a.m. and call it a day at 5:00
p.m. In Spain, it is unthinkable, even if you are at the loose end…
The
language barrier was not a shock to me. I had known well Spanish people are
positioned at the very bottoms of rankings of command of foreign languages.
Nevertheless, the phenomenon is astonishing in a country which to a large
extent lives off tourism. Over those days I had to harness Google Translator to
take a crash course in basic Spanish and the upshot was that in many situations
I talked in English while my interlocutors responded to me in Spanish.
Generally, if you open your mouth and speak English, expect to behold dread on
your interlocutor’s face. Chances of communicating (and nothing beyond it,
since quality of English used in Spain is abhorrent) are the highest in tourist
areas and with young people (the country’s authorities have recognised the
problem and have put emphasis on linguistic education of youngsters). Even
workers of international corporations have problems speaking decent English,
make lots of mistakes, come up with words being a mixture of Spanish and
English and often sincerely admit they need to omit part of they want to say
since they do not know how to say it in English… In this respect I am proud of
Poland!
It would be
a gross understatement to say I am not a gourmet, yet I regardless of my
indifference to what I eat and inability to take delight in tasting, I have not
grown fond of Spanish cuisine. Some claim Spanish food is hearty. For me it is
simply stodgy. Had no problems with my digestive system after any meal, yet I
felt my stomach was chock full of stuff I had gorged on. Apart from shunning
light meals (which is kind of strange given weather they have to endure in
summer) they tend to eat small breakfasts (which was reflected in quantities
and choice of food produces served for breakfasts in hotels), sizeable lunches
and huge suppers. Exactly the other way round than how I prefer to eat (large
breakfast, decent lunch, small last meal at least 3 hours before falling
asleep).
Sights-wise,
the biggest attraction was the trip to Toledo. The city is magnificently
picturesque, yet strolling around it requires some fitness, since you
constantly walk either uphill or downhill. The weather the day I visited it was
perfect despite large temperature swing from frost to +14C.
And one
more snap – a view to the other, southern bank of the river surrounding the
city. Absolutely splendid.
If you want
to visit (tick off) all sights in Madrid, two days might be fair enough, yet if
you are fond of arts and history and want your trip to be more conscious,
reserve two more days. During my stay I visited only the most renowned Prado
Museum. If you want to see all painting exhibited there and contemplate them, a
day-long visit is probably recommended. Me, not being an art connoisseur,
dashed through the collections during the two-hour free admission open-doors
period in the evening.
Because of
understaffing in the office, the next holiday break is planned for… hell knows
when, but sadly not before long… For the time being I’m down with some throat
infection and fever, working from home next week.
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